* Note concerning Missouri mileage.

N 45.56 W 111.29

The small town of Three Forks Montana boasts a grocery store (with a grouchy check out lady) gas stations, bank, the Headwaters Cafe and for an overnight stay the Sacajawea Inn, a hundred year old traditional wood hotel.

The town of Three Forks, however is not exactly at the three forks The actual launch site is about four miles out of town across the four-lane highway at the Three Forks state park. The Jefferson and Madison streams join first, then the Gallatin joins in. At this point, there is a launch site on the left of the road just before leaving the park. The handout newspaper says camping is permitted at the launch site, but the fish and game people might try to tell you otherwise. Here the river is clear and fast moving, with rocky bottom. If you have rented a car you will most likely be returning it to Helena (which you will pass later on your trek). The hitch back from Helena is an easy one, though you may have to walk the 4 miles from the four-lane.

N 46-07.300 W 111.24.554

Your first dam, and an easy portage. This dam really doesn’t make a lake per se, but merely raises the river level for a short way. The portage is on the left at the dock near the picnic shelter. There are two put-ins, the shortcut put-in about half way down to the other boat launch, but you have to drop down a pretty steep bank. The dam boys say you should watch for rattle snakes around this dam. There is a nice campsite at long put-in at the base of the hill.

Put in on the right bank just after both bridges and take the mile walk to center of town or make the easy hitch. Townsend has gas, phone, groceries, and plenty of friendly folk to talk with.

If you are canoeing early in the season you may canoe through marshland quite a way into Canyon Ferry Lake. Later in the season when the lake has been filled from snow melt, the river ends quicker and the lake begins sooner. This is your first big lake, and though you may later dismiss it as small, right now it looks huge. Be careful, angry storms can blow up and produce waves as high as your canoe is long.

N 46-32.424 W 111.33.625

On the right bank of Canyon Ferry Lake on an inlet about 60% up the lake. A shabby private marina and campground hardly worth visiting unless you really need some cheap snacks or must use the telephone.

KIM'S MARINA, Montana

N46-39-060 W111-42.017

A delightful quality marina and campground well worth a stop. Camping is about $10 but a shower is $2 (ask for a towel even though it normally is not provided). Gas, groceries, mail-drop, and across the street is O'Malley's Pub and restaurant where you'll want to try their "Cowboy Classic" and "Indian Fried Bread." And, if you have a motor and need help see "Butch's Marine" (in a garage behind O'Malley's). Butch is one of those garage mechanics who can fix most anything even without consulting a computer.

N46-39.378 W111.44.200

Get ready for a major painful portage. Portage right up a steep shale bank, across the road, over the concrete wall, and down a steep so-called "path" to the put-in site below the dam. Don't expect much help from the dam employees (who were right there with a pick up truck when I portaged and even wanted to help me portage, but when they called their supervisor were told to refuse help). Later, at a lower dam I was told by one of the employees that there is a federal law requiring them to provide assistance to portaging canoes, but I have been unable to locate the law. If there isn’t a law their should be -- after all, they put the obstruction there, and the river is the highway!

If you are solo and have a heavy canoe this portage could take a full half-day. A much better idea than trying this worst-of-all-Missouri River Portages is to put in at the boat launch about a mile before the dam on the right, and find a fisherman with a boat trailer or pickup truck to take you around the dam.

HAUSER DAM, Montana

Portage on the left up a bank to a gradually descending road. Some ignore the signs and go right up to the shore at the dam, but do so at the risk of a $500 fine (the fines are not levied by Montana Power employees, but by the fish and game cops). The workers at Hauser Dam are much more trekker-friendly than those at Canyon Ferry and if you ask them they will likely toss your stuff on their truck and take you around the dam to the put-in site below the rapids. (Don’t put in before the regular put in site -- this dam collapsed once and the iron from the old dam is strewn over the floor of the river waiting to tear out the bottom of your boat in this fast tail water.)

As you move toward the Gates of the Mountains be ready for a fast-flowing river which seems to sink away from you as if it is a long descending highway, yet without the usual "rapids" such a drop would normally give the canoeist. It is an exciting trip.

GATES OF THE MOUNTAINS BOAT CLUB N46-49.905 W111-57.115

A great place to stop for a break, especially if you precede the tourist season. From here the boat tours of the "Gates of the Mountains" begins and ends. This boat club is run by a trust fund of sorts, and they have some delightful displays in the "waiting shelter." Also several Coke machines and a phone.

N46-51.563 W111-54.500

There are two (official) campsites right down in the "Gates" canyon. If at all possible try to plan your day to stay a night down in this canyon. The Colter Campsite is a canoe-in site, and if you beat the season it will give you a delightful night in the canyon. (I had the entire site to myself, and had a wonderful stay.) Watch for the sign on the right… but it will be hard to miss -- after all you are in a canyon!

N46-59.330 W111-59.061

On the right bank just before Houlter Dam. A great place, staffed by friendly people, great snacks and groceries, (and free coffee) A wonderful service shop if you need motor repairs or shear pins. However, don't bother asking for a portage -- the very idea of a "Boat Loft" bans all boat trailers from the property.

HOULTER DAM, Montana 2215 Miles 2215

N46-59.555 W112.00.549

Portage left where you can canoe right up to the dam. Take the long gradual road to put in site. There is a shortcut put-in down shale bank right at the cable limit signs, but having taken the short cut route I wish I had taken the longer walk. The river moves fast down through the next canyon... enjoy the speed, it won't last.

N47-16.240 W111-41-765

Land under the bridge on either bank. Cascade has several gas stations, an IGA grocery store, a convenience store, phone, PO and more bars than it needs. The river widens and slows from Cascade to Great falls, sticks floating on the surface barely move but the area is teeming with bird life.

N47-25.052 W111-30.222

Land on either the left or right bank. It is four blocks left to the gas station (at the Interstate 15 exit) and next door is the PO, phone, and of course, there are several bars in the area.

It took Lewis & Clark a full month to portage the Great Falls. You will do it faster, but it can be complicated. The Great Falls series drops 512' over several miles (for comparison Niagara Falls drops about 150'). An easy take out is just above second bridge on the left bank. Two blocks to the left on Central West Road is Great falls U-Haul-- Dick Ferrell, the manager came to Montana to study forestry and wound up running the U-Haul business. (Phone 406-761-1620) Hauling your canoe & gear around the series of falls in a U-haul truck then hitching back to your gear is one option. (about $60 with per-mile charges.)

A much better option is to contact Jim & Diane McDermond (406-761-0303) of the Medicine River Canoe club. Jim and Diane, along with other club members will portage thru-trekkers. Indeed, if you are going to get a portage from Jim and Diane, you will want to canoe closer to the first dam.

Great Falls is a good town for a day off. There are cheap motels near the fairgrounds/ U-haul. A better hotel a mile away toward K-mart (Day's Inn @ $42.) Right next to Day's Inn is Big Bear Outfitters which carries the stuff you forgot to buy for your trek.

The one-hour photo is at Wal-mart. But, while you are in Great Falls, don't miss a trip over to the Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center on the right bank. This is the best L&C site on the entire river. Also, Richard Hopkins the BLM field manager is helpful (downtown-ask for directions) where you can pick up the Tyvek maps for the Wild & Scenic River section coming up, if you want additional official maps.

Put-in sites below the dams: There are two. If you are comfortable with class two (and sometimes three) rapids, put in just below Merony dam (and stay mostly to the left the next three miles.) Otherwise go to Carter Ferry. Ask Jim and Diane for advice on this and also make sure you get Diane’s advice on the White Cliffs sites -- she is a virtual fount of detailed and helpful information.

A delightful town which deserves an overnight stay. Don’t miss the keelboat on main street. Everything you need is available here, a pleasant grocery store and fuel at the gas station a block or so north of the blinker light. While sometimes there is reliable safe water in the Wild and Scenic river, your best bet is to carry water from here to last you until Kipp landing, 150 miles later.

Probably the highlight of your entire trek. You will likely decide to return and do this section again, with your friends. On a trek one often does not stop to investigate enough, realizing that you’ve still got several thousand miles to go. This is a wonderful place to leisurely explore. In summer it is a very popular trip, so you won’t be alone. Before May 31, however, you may be alone through this section, unless you are traveling through on a weekend.

Enjoy this segment of your trek, take your time, and be sure to walk up some of the trails -- the stories about rattlesnakes are overblown.

You will exit the Wild and Scenic River at Kipp campsite where you will find the only phone in the 300 mile section between Ft. Benton and Ft. Peck. As for groceries, your Benton groceries will have to last to Wolf Point, below Ft. Peck dam.

If you didn't get your sea-experience on Canyon Ferry Lake, here's your second chance. This 134 mile long lake is sometimes 5 miles wide and can kick up rollers as high as your boat is long. If it does you’ll be wind bound. However, it is often peaceful and a canoeist can make it through the entire lake on glass. It depends on the wind. But a wise trekker will take enough food and water to allow for a day or two being storm-bound.

As to food, phone, and fresh water there is none in this full section. You must rely on the water you got at Kipp, and the food you got in Ft. Benton.

There are several official "campsites" on the shoreline, but these offer no services or water, but may offer companionship if you are lonesome, which you likely will be, considering you are trekking through more than 300 miles without so much as a store or town. Besides, if there are any fishermen who drove the 90 miles of dirt roads to get to the deserted shoreline, they often brought a cooler and Cokes along and will likely share one with you.

If you carry a GPS receiver it will no longer be a toy on this big lake where the dead-end arms are sometimes wider than the main channel. While most trekkers do not leave their GPS running all day, they do get it out when lost, plotting their location on their map so they can find their way back to the main channel.

Portage right if you insist on carrying everything yourself. If you are going to try to get a ride, portage at the marina on the left of dam and do one of three things: 1)ask someone off-loading their boat to portage you; 2) ask the guy at the marina to carry you around; 3) or, if you are staying at the Hotel (and you should) call them for a portage (hey, Montanans are helpful people).

The put in site on the left bank is just below the outlet next to a nice campsite (with showers). The portage left is 4-5 miles if you have to carry it.

If you can afford a $32 night try the hotel "down town" (Pop 300). It was built in 1936 to house Corps of Engineers officers and has that substantial "New Deal flavor." Rooms have showers, but ask them to let you use the old claw foot bathtub upstairs - you'll need it by now. If you are a thru-trekker ask to use the hotel laundry. The hotel serves dinner in May "if enough people sign in." Later in the summer there is a reliable dinner. Their breakfast coffee is particularly delicious.

Find the Post office 200 yards from the hotel. The grocery store is no longer open so your Ft. Benton groceries have to last until Wolf Point. Unless, that is, you are willing to walk 4 miles out to the Conoco station to get a few snacks. If you do, look up "Sis Bondy" who volunteers in the little info booth. Sis, (Thelma is her real name) is in her 80's. She moved here before the dam was built in 1933 and is the oldest resident. She told me two hour's worth of stories not available in the official Corps releases. 30,000 people lived here then. Nearby is the original site of the fort. Oh yeah, across from the Conoco station see "The Gateway" and eat a 21 day aged New York Strip steak for $13. You'll like Ft. Peck. Have you ever seen the very first LIFE magazine? That was this dam on the cover.

This 62 mile section will be a big change from the giant lake. As always, after the dam the water is colder, the river is extremely shallow (depending on how much the dam boys are "retaining water" and the river is full of snags and boulders. The Indian reservation is on your left, and open grazing land to your right. While the run from Ft. Peck to the confluence is not as popular as the Wild and Scenic river, it is also both wild and scenic.

"Frazier rapids" can be class two (maybe three?) depending on water volume, but is not a difficult rapids. Oswego is near the river but hard to find access. Trees now are more common, and the rich bottom land will be lush with green grasses in early summer.

Unless the grocery store opens at Ft. Peck this will likely be your re-supply town for the run down to the Confluence and beyond. Wolf Point is a full service town complete with banks, grocery stores, hardware outdoor suppliers, gas and phone. Put in site is up a tiny inlet of Wolf Creek near the "pumping building" on your left. No dock or launch point.

It's interesting how towns have a collective personality, and the individuals of the town seem to take on that mind-set. In some towns if you walk a mile with a gas can, five cars will stop and offer you a ride. Wolf point seems to have an air of grim despair about it. I saw only one smile in my hour there -- and that was from a mildly retarded girl at the grocery store.

I made my purchases, walked the mile back to my canoe, paid $5 to the boys who had offered/threatened to watch my canoe for me, and got back on the river as quick as I could.

Keep your eye out for the grain elevator on your left -- that's where you want to go. There are two ways to access this village: from the bridge (the long way) or take the left turnout and walk down the railroad tracks to the elevator.

Across from the elevator is the "B&S Quickstop" and gas station (including phone) which has an impressive array of food and snacks including a variety of tiny cans of meats. Just around the corner is the other business in town: "B&S laundry & Broasted chicken" (I am not making this up.) It really is a Laundromat/video store/broasted chicken combo store. If you need some deep fried chicken, get your fat fill-up here. The tiny post office has one of the friendliest postmasters on the route and is about the only thing in town not owned by B&S.

Even if you are not using Brockton as mail drop, stop in at the tiny Post office and talk with Bob. He'll get his map out and make you feel welcome to Brockton more than anyone.

N 48-00 W 104-03

The signal to begin watching for the fort is floating under the black railroad draw bridge (once used as both a railroad and auto bridge, the automobiles having to make sure no train was coming before they zipped over the bridge). On your left is the reconstructed Ft. Union trading post. The river once flowed right past its front gate but has shifted its channel away leaving (in wet season) a marsh between you and the gate if you tie up in front of the fort.

Incredibly no attempt has been made to provide a dry path access to the fort directly from the river, and the general attitude from my interview with the employees as evidently "we don't want the hassle of boats landing." While this may be a typical attitude of many river sites, (i.e. "Millions for parking lots, but not one cent for river access") it was especially apparent at Ft. Union. With such an attitude pervasive, Randy Kane (head ranger) and Andy Bonta (site superintendent) may have been replaced by the time you arrive, and leadership with a more bicentennial trekker sensitivity may have their jobs. I hope so.

To tour the site without fording the swamp pass the fort until you come to highway 58 and put in on the left upstream from the bridge. Take highway 58 north a mile then turn left and walk down 1804 several miles to the fort.

Immediately following the fort is the Confluence of the Yellowstone and Missouri rivers. If you hit this section in late May or early June the Yellowstone will seem like the larger of the two rivers, having less "protection" by dams than the Missouri. If so, the Yellowstone will run muddy red, and you can actually canoe several hundred yards on the line, the left paddler canoeing in the Missouri, the right one in the Yellowstone.

The confluence is the most popular site for snaring paddlefish, those swordfish-looking creatures are seemingly leftover from another epoch. The fishermen cast a three-pronged snare far out into the river, then jerk it back hoping to snare one of these mothers-to-be on her journey upstream. They are giant fish, about the size of a child, and can weigh 150 pounds.

They are filled with little paddlefish eggs, sold for top dollar as caviar. If you arrive during the season (late May-early June) the shore may be lined with a hundred fishermen trying to snag one of these expectant mothers. A caviar company has set up shop here and has three or four full time men available to clean the paddlefish in exchange for the roe/caviar. There is a coke machine and water here during the season, but no supplies or phone, unless you arrive at the end of the season, then you may be able to talk some fuel out of the caviar company employees.

Be prepared for a tangled spaghetti bowl of channels, backwaters, oxbows and dead ends as you pass Williston. If you have excellent large scale maps and a GPS you will probably know where you are. Most trekkers simply keep going downstream assuming that all the channels will eventually reunite in the lake. They do, but be prepared for a winding tour of the marsh, first with the sun in your face, then on your right ear, then your back, and now in your face again!

If you didn't re-supply at Wolf Point, Poplar, or Brockton and you must go into Williston, there are two routes. The easiest (though longest) is to tie up at the bridge at US 85 and hitch 4-5 miles to US 2 then right 5-6 miles to Williston. The harder (and shorter walk) is to take the outer left hand loop which heads northeast to collect the Little Muddy River, then ascend the Little Muddy (assuming the water level is high enough) to the bridge carrying 1804 which is right in Williston. Neither are good access points, which is why Williston (like most larger cities) is not probably your best choice for re-supplying.

You'll love this long lake named for the wife of the Canadian trapped Toussaint Charboneau, Sakakawea (Hidatsa meaning Bird Woman). She was from the mountains above three forks, and had been captured and enslaved in a raid by the plains Indians, winding up the wife of a French Canadian trapper. She, along with her son on her back, accompanied Lewis and Clark and provided a vital link with the tribes where they hoped to get horses for their journey (a short one, they hoped) over the Bitterroot range of the rocky mountains and down the Columbia river to the sea. This lake (along with the new dollar coin) is in her honor.

The lake itself is 178 miles long and averages 2-3 miles wide, though it can get up to 5-6 miles wide occasionally. While "following the shore" is generally a good idea, the trekker has to cut off some points: the lake has 1300 miles of shoreline!

Consider the LEWIS AND CLARK STATE PARK, on the left shore (N48-06 W103-14) for a delightful walk-in/boat-in campsite right on the lake, yet with hot showers if you are needing one by now. This campground is tended by the ranger as if it is her personal garden and legacy -- you'll see more species of trees and bushes here than you've seen on your entire trip thus far.

Most trekkers stop at 4 BEARS CASINO (Mile 1481) (N47-59 W102-34.5) to eat a hamburger, make a phone call, or lose a quarter. They also have an adequate campground and gas station/quick stop. The landing for the campground and casino is past the bridge and casino around the corner to the bay on your right.

A much nicer public campground is located to the left, around the corner at NEW TOWN MARINA, a protected harbor and campground with showers, fuel, telephone and snacks.

Right at 4 bears you head south west as you round the big bend.

A substandard campground is located at POUCH POINT (N47-48 W102-24) around the corner to your left as you enter Van Hook Arm. (a better choice is the raw beach-inlet on the right bank at INDEPENDENCE POINT (N47.46.5 W102-21.3)

This is a long portage, but you may be able to get help. Consider staying at Sakakawea State Park --Right on the point just before the dam. In the side office of the marina (fuel avail.) the state park ranger may be able to help you get around the dam, they sometimes portage canoe trekkers in their pickup truck.

If this fails, and there are no day fisherman putting in, the walk from the State Park is 2-3 miles. Some take out on the actual dam itself, near the intake building and walk up over the top -- this is probably the closest route to the put in site below the dam, but involves climbing the rip-rap.

Peck City on the right side of the dam has a small grocery store and gas station. Riverdale, on the left has a post office and snacks. The two towns are in different time zones.

The downstream campsite can be reached from the river. Look for a tiny sandy cove to your left with a metal pipe (draining a pond) emptying into it. Follow the path here 50 Yards to the campground. (Coke machine, showers, phone).

To your left after passing under the bridge is the landing. Follow this road up to Rt. 200 crossing the bridge then in to town. At the "gas station" on your right is an amazing hardware store. The town proper is behind the station. Across the street is an excellent Lewis & Clark interpretive center overlooking the river. At the time of the writing of this guidebook they had the actual original draft of the Thomas Jefferson letter of instructions to Lewis on display loaned to this center from the national archives. While all the interpretation is done well, you should especially study the 30' dugout canoe made from a cottonwood tree in the pattern used by Lewis and Clark. (Imagine portaging this around Great Falls, and you will readily see why it took a month!) The actual Ft. Mandan is three miles west of Washburn on county road 17, and the traditional site is 13 miles west.

This center offers an excellent bookstore and if you are running out of books to read on your journey it is a wonderful place to re-supply (see book list elsewhere in this guide).

If you started at Three Forks, congratulations, you have canoed over 1000 miles so far. However, don't relax too much yet -- you are not yet half way to St. Louis!

Bismarck is a large city and there are numerous take out sites., The first is the city launch site just past the "steamboat tour" on the left, after passing under the first bridge. There is a phone here. The second is at the large marina on your left a mile later. The final option is a launch site way down on S. Washington Street after you've apparently left town, but is still accessible to a private campground (up S. Washington street) and a few miles from the airport.

Bismarck has just about everything you need, though, as a large city it is difficult getting around it. If you need a rental car for taking a few days off to celebrate covering 1000 miles since Three Forks, I recommend Enterprise, with offices in the 100 block of Main Street, near the "steamboat" take out site. This company bent over backwards to help me in Bismarck, and you can count on "second mile service."

Soon after you leave Bismarck/Mandan the river starts to lose its flow and you begin to feel the effects of Lake Oahe. However, expect a multitude of trees, snags, and just-under-the-surface water-soaked logs for 20-30 miles.

The lake itself (pronounced O-wah-hee) is several miles wide, but has less bays and arms than either Sakakawea or Ft. Peck Lakes, making it very much like a three-mile-wide river. Of course the only current you'll sense is from the wind. Though Oahe is not as wide as those bigger lakes, it is pretty straight so if you've got a 15 mph wind coming down the lake, be prepared for waves and breakers.

The boat ramp is before the town on your right, just to the left of the large grassy knoll. However, all the services are at the south end of town, so you might consider tying up another mile downstream (though, if the sea is choppy, the rocks will beat your canoe up if you plan to be gone long). Groceries, phone, PO, and fuel are about a mile from the boat ramp straight south through the residential area.

A seemingly larger town then Ft. Yates with easier access. A full service town. You will be greeted at its edge by a large Burger King sign on the left bank, the first on-the-river BK in the last 1000 miles. And, if you started at Three Forks, you'll be willing to tie up on the suitcase sized rocks to have one!

South down the same street from the BK is a Payless full grocery store and just about anything else you want can be had in Mobridge.

If you can pass up the BK, but want a shower instead, pass to the Indian Creek Rec. Area and campsite/Marina. (second inlet on your left after town) However, if you want a sandy landing spot so your boat won't get beat apart on the rocks, take the third inlet and just around the corner is a sandy pull-out where you might be able to share the site with other campers. (N45-30.75 W100-22.75) The marina has short term supplies, cabins and fuel.

On the left bank turn far back into the bay until you have almost made a circle to find Whitlock Bay ramp. Phone in the parking lot. North several hundred yards to the bait shop and snacks, drinks and ice cream. Campsite includes showers but few if any campsites on the water.

Take out at right, a large landing site with plenty of fishermen happy to help canoe trekkers. If all fails, try calling the corps of engineers or Dakota game fish & parks at 605-773-5535. The put-in is below the dam at the marina which has a phone, snacks and fuel. If you need a major re-supply Pierre is just a few miles downstream on your left. Take out for Pierre is at the park on your left, hard to miss.

Within a few miles of Pierre the river becomes Lake Sharp, some 80 miles long, constructed in 1963 between two Indian reservations, Crow Creek Sioux and Lower Brule Sioux. It is not much different than Oahe in feel.

The dam you will portage later gets its name from the gigantic big bend in the river just before Lower Brule. Here the Missouri almost makes a complete loop, wandering 25 miles before returning the neck where you were quite a while ago, 1 1/2 miles across.

Just after the Big Bend on your right. No landing site directly in town (though one above the town). The best take out site is at the playground on your right. Then walk through the campsite and South a few blocks to a tiny grocery store sometimes open, a hotel, Post Office, and casino. The only phone is in the casino (by the way, the best way to make money in a casino is to eat their inexpensive meals.)

Immediately following Lower Brule you will see the dam. Take out is at your far right all the way curled back around facing the generating plant (which looks like a spillway from the upper side). Like Oahe dam, this is also a busy site in fishing season, and if you ask right, you should be on the bottom side of the dam in an hour -- less on weekends. Ft. Thompson is a possible re-supply town, but if you can hold your horses for another 30 miles you can re-supply in Chamberlain.

If you plan to overnight near Chamberlain, you have a left bank and a right bank choice. On your left is the town of Chamberlain. Take out at the American Creek Rec. Area (and campsite) or further up American creek in town itself). Chamberlain is a delightful almost-big-enough-for-a-movie town.

On the right bank is the Cedar Shore resort, including a restaurant, campground and marina (fuel). If you began in Three Forks, and are going to St. Louis, you might want to celebrate and get one of the rooms at the resort. If you do, request a "hillside room" (you've seen enough of the river recently) and ask for a special deal for canoe trekkers -- tell them where you started.

Take out on right at boat ramp near the dam. Put in on right below the dam and just above Randall Creek park campground.

If you plan to re-supply at Pickstown, on the other hand, take out is dam-left, up St. Francis bay and out is also on the left below the dam near the spillway campground. The spillway campground is close enough to walk to Pickstown, but the campground is less developed. (Though you can put in and camp on the right shore and canoe across.)

A short 25 mile lake, and your last one. Enjoy it, it is all river from here on.

Celebrate! This is your final dam portage!

If you started at Three Forks, Montana you've portaged fourteen dams so far:

1. Toston Dam (river dam, MT)

2. Canyon Ferry Dam (Canyon Ferry Lake, MT)

3. Hauser Dam (River dam, MT)

4. Holter Dam (Holter Lake, MT)

5. Black Eagle Dam (Great Falls series, MT)

6. Rainbow Dam (Great Falls series, MT)

7. Cocharne Dam (Great Falls series, MT)

8. Ryan Dam (Great Falls series, MT)

9. Morony Dam (Great Falls series, MT)

10. Ft. Peck Dam (Ft. Peck Lake, Mt.)

11. Garrison Dam (Lake Sakakawea, ND)

12. Oahe Dam (endless Lake Oahe, SD)

13. Ft. Randall Dam (Lake Francis Case, SD)

14. Gavins Point Dam (Lewis and Clark Lake, SD)

You will not be saddened to bid the dams good-bye. Take out for Gavins Point Dam is left of dam at the Lewis and Clark Marina. Put in is on the right near the Nebraska Tail waters campground.

A full size town with easy access from the river. Several pull-out sites, but one of the best is probably just below the "steamboat Visitor Center" on your left, at Midland Marina. Be sure to tour the free museum in the steamboat, "Sergeant Floyd," named for the single loss of life on the Lewis and Clark trek.

Passing through Sioux falls the Washington- Monument-type obelisk to you left is the 100 foot high Sergeant Floyd monument, who probably died of a ruptured appendix on the Lewis and Clark expedition. The only way for a river traveler to reach it, however is to dodge the traffic in I 29.

From Sioux City to St. Louis you experience the third type of river: channeled "industrial canal." Here you will sail with heavy barges along a route the Corps of Engineers has established for barge traffic, not you. The navigation markers are frequent (red on the left, green on the right) and each one displays a mile marker showing the distance to St. Louis (actually to confluence of the Missouri and Mississippi, but until the day you arrive there you'll consider that close enough).

Besides the red and green markers setting out the left and right side of the channel, there are blue markers for many whole mile points, usually attached to a tree on the shore. Be ready to cross frequent "wing dams" or "wing dikes," (underwater stone dams to divert the flow into the channel). You'll drop a bit when crossing a wing dike, sometimes a bit more than "a bit" but nothing like the big waves you faced on the stormy lakes.

The lower river (especially when the flow is high) has plenty of full size "boils," with the water erupting like a volcano flowing outward. Canoeing into a boil makes it seem like an invisible underwater hand has grabbed your canoe and turned it, or is holding it back. The channel is pretty straight (the Corps of Engineer’s constant "fixing" of the river has taken out more than 200 miles of river bends since Lewis and Clark).

The only difficult water you will face comes from the wake of the large barges. An upstream barge can cause two foot waves if you get close enough, and because of the narrow channel, the from-shore feedback waves last for nearly a mile after the barge has past you. If barge traffic is sparse, many canoeists simply take a "coffee break" and wait out the big waves. If traffic is heavier, you simply slow down and negotiate the wake and feedback. It is not as difficult as you have already faced on the big lakes.

MILE MARKERS From Sioux City downstream the Corps of Engineers has posted frequent mile markers displaying the distance to the mouth of the Missouri at the Mississippi providing accurate locating of all sites from this point on. And by Sioux City the canoe trekker is "thinking St. Louis" it fits in with the "down to the finish line" mind-set. The mile markers for the major points from here on:

733 L - Sioux City

691 L - Decatur Marina

651 R - Cottonwood Marina

627 R - Dodge Marina

617 R - Sandpiper Marina/Omaha

601 R - Bellevue Marina

591 R - Plattsmouth

561 R - Nebraska City Bridge

535 R - Brownville

498 R - Rulo

449 R - St. Joseph

423 R - Atchison

397 R - Leavenworth

365 R - Kansas City

317 R - Lexington

262 R - Miami

226 - Glasgow

197 - Boonville

144 - Jefferson City

105 - Gasconade

98 - Hermann

67 - Washington

44 - Rt 40 bridge

8 - Rt. 67 Bridge

0 - Mississippi River

+15 to St. Louis Arch

Bob Hutton sold off his pizza franchises and downsized his life a few years ago opening this well-protected small marina in a little cove on your right Fuel and a few snacks available through the day, and full delicious meals in the evenings at his Pop N' Doc's Restaurant. No public phone, but ask Bob to use their marina phone if you are making a toll-free call.

A delightful small campground with a hand pump, 20 campsites, and a shelter. Nothing more, but a nice private place.

A full service RV-type campground.

New owners are refurbishing this marina. Public phone, evening meals on weekends, and bar snacks. A protected cove to right, but public landing right on the river.

The landing site is just before the railroad bridge on your right at a little park. Potential re-supply by walking the mile into Blair.

On your left, a new well-designed campground.

A massive (expensive) marina for massive (expensive) boats. Here you’ll see boats from St. Louis and suddenly you'll feel like you are on the final leg of your journey. Fuel is not available back in the protected marina, but out on the river, just below the marina entrance. The park is for picnicking, but if you go to the trailer where the marina manager lives, telling him you are river trekking he will set you up in the front yard, show you to the hot showers, and may even offer to take you to town for re-supplying.

If you stay here at Dodge, wander down to the docks where the fuel is sold and chat with the "gathering of old men" which collects there each night. Ask for Bob Coleman and hear some of his river stories. For a good time buy Bob’s book, "Grab a Bush" which is a collection of steamboat stories and yarns. Buy it in the fuel store.

The entry is just past the "navy ships" on your right. Phone at the restaurant which is closed Mondays, open some evenings and all weekends like most marinas.

On your left see two large riverboat casinos where the meals are cheap (that is, if you only spend money on the meals). Phone and hotel rooms also. The city of Omaha is on your right, but is difficult to access. The best bet for access is supposedly at the park on the right, but it is hard to find from the river.

Watch for the bridge. Just below bridge is the landing area

A nice marina with snacks and fuel -- if they are open, which they sometimes are.

Landing at the ramp on right just before bridge.

Watch for the bridge.

Watch for the bridge and two "steamboats" on your right. One is in the river and is a tour boat, and the other on shore and serves as a museum. Take out is at the park and campground located at the boats.

Brownville is just a few hundred yards up the hill. This little town is a tourist town and deserves a visit, though it offers no fuel or groceries. There are antique stores, a health food store, ice cream store, a motorcycle bar but, best of all, Midge Mason's "Brownville House," the only place to eat in town.

Midge and her children run a first rate, home-spun small town restaurant where the featured meal is a gigantic rib eye steak, which is good enough, but the walk up the hill is worth making just to eat some of Midge's home made bread. Their $2.00 breakfast includes an egg, gigantic hunks of Midge’s home made bread, jams and jellies, and a gallon of fresh coffee.

Midge herself usually serves breakfast, and if you are the only customer at 6 AM, she is likely to bring her plate out and join you, telling stories of other canoe trekkers, and remembering her late husband who was a fishing guide on the Missouri River. Don't miss this stop. (and use their rest room which has really hot water for a quick wash up).

Tie up on right after the double bridge at "Camp Rulo River Club" which is neither a camp nor a club, but rather a waterfront restaurant open to the public at lunch and dinner. The small J&B Grocery store is several blocks in town (population 200). Also, turn left on 1st. street to "Ye Ole Tyme Saloon" which serves meal and is located across from "Ye Ole' Washboard" (I am not making this up) a Laundromat.

Like most large cities, St. Joseph is difficult to access. The best bet is to tie up at Riverfront Park, near the "Spirit of St. Joseph" riverboat. Exit the park to the left and head for the clearly marked Civic Center building then turn right when you see the Holiday Inn sign. One block southeast from the holiday inn is the Phillips 66 gas station and C-store.

In the 1840's and 1850's the hills around St. Joseph were packed with thousands of emigrants every spring who camped here waiting for the grass to green up west of here so they could continue on either the California or Oregon trail.

A delightful mid-sized town renewed and restored after the flood of 1958. Tie up on right bank at "Independence Park" before both the low (RR) and high bridge -- watch for the picnic tables. Lunches and dinner available at the River House right at the park. Formerly the Kansas-Nebraska Hotel, it was restored by 15 partners, one of whom (Steve Busch) is now the manager.

Fuel is available at the Texaco station at the end of the "High Bridge" (up the railroad track or road). Get groceries at the IGA four blocks in town on Commercial street (the same street as the River House).

Here in Atchison in 1860 the famous "Atchison, Topeka and the Santa Fe" railroad was formed. Also, the never-found aviatrix, Amelia Earhart was born (223 N. Terrace Street). Also on the river near Atchison is where the steamboat once piloted by Mark Twain sunk (though later recovered and continued in service.)

If you decide it is time for a hotel, the Comfort Inn is about a mile west on US 59 (the High Bridge route).

The town hosts the famous federal prison. A singularly decrepit town with a public campsite at the "Riverfront Park." Just after the bridge on the right bank is a ramp. To get into town pass the coast guard building downstream, turn right 10 blocks for hamburgers and double that for fuel. Perhaps a better access is down town at the new riverside park, but you'll have to climb a four foot iron fence... and when you get to town it's sort of depressing anyway.

The largest city you'll canoe through on the entire Missouri and, of course, difficult to access. You could get out at the new Riverfront Park on your right just after the "Square bridge" but all you'd achieve is finding some grass to sit on. Or perhaps you might try tying up after the next bridge (a suspension bridge) and trying your luck at the buffet of the Flamingo Casino, though the food at this casino is not as cheap as usual casino food. Most canoeists simple try to get through Kansas City as fast as they can, which won’t be as fast as you want to.

A ramp at 337.2 right leads to the old reconstructed Ft. Osage, which was soon established after Lewis and Clark suggested the site as an ideal one for a fort. The tiny hamlet of Sibley is just above the fort, but offers nothing more than honey for sale.

Land at the grain elevator, cross railroad tracks and take Ash Street directly up the hill 100 yards to a cool little general store, a Post Office, and a few antique shops. No fuel.

Large enough to have just about anything you need, and small enough to get around. Tie up near the wastewater treatment plant at mile 316.5 right. Take that road (10th. street) up the hill 500 Yards right into the center of town.

Fuel another several blocks. Lexington is a delightful town and worth a stop.

Tie up at the "Port of Waverly" on the right bank just before the iron bridge. Walk up the road leading to a town offering a Laundromat (boarded up), a drug store (boarded up) and several other very interesting stores (all boarded up). On the other hand, the post office, nursing home, and funeral home are all open for business, so waverlyites can at least get their mail, grow old, die and get buried. If you are still alive, and are not using Waverly as a mail drop, you could walk another good hop out the road coming off the bridge to find a general store and fuel.

The landing is on the right just before the bridge. But there is nothing to land for- the town is virtually empty.

A wonderful river town actually right on the river and not perched on a bluff as usual. Tie up near the Corps of Engineers Quonset hut on the left bank just before the CoOp grain elevator. Just a block behind the CoOp is a gas station and the post office. To your left are several restaurants, a drug store, and other assorted small town non-tourist shops including a Laundromat. Glasgow is a great stop.

Tie up is either under the bridge or beyond the bridge at the "Riverfront Park." A nice medium sized town which has not been Wal-Martized, and continues to act like Wal-Mart hadn't moved in at the edge of town even though it has. Boonville is a full service town with anything you want, ands is a wonderful place to wander around as you smell the delicious fragrance of a local bread factory right on the main street.

A "campground" supposedly, but nothing very helpful in the "town" itself.

The capitol of Missouri but a royal pain to access. Perhaps you will tie up near the capitol building and walk over the Rail Road tracks into town. Better yet, like most large towns, you’ll probably simply pass it by.

If you are trekking the entire Missouri you will probably try to make it to Hermann for two reasons. First, it is a delightful little German river town directly on the right bank. Second, it is located at mile 98 -- and arriving here signals your breaking the final 100 miles of your trek -- the end of the Missouri is in reach.

Tie up is at the Riverfront park on your right just below the bridge where there is located a small bait shop and a boat ramp. (Ask where you should tie up for the night if you are staying -- remember this is a German town and things must be done properly, and always by asking.)

Just a block back from the river front are a dozen shops, a grocery store, and several superb eating establishments. If you've got 80 bucks) right facing the river (214 Wharf street) is a hundred year old B&B in which to celebrate your final days on the river. If your tastes are more inexpensive, (or you wouldn’t like Mary's cat) try the 1950's motel a few blocks up the hill at the end of the bridge.

Hermann was settled by a society from Philadelphia for the purpose of preserving German culture and language. Many of the older residents still speak German at home and the town is neat, clean, and efficient, as you might expect.

A town which tried hard to be Hermann but failed miserably. You can tie up at the 81.7 levee marker to see a ghost town. There is a post office and a pub which is open over lunch time on some days.

Another German settlement larger than Hermann but not quite as nice. Tie up at city park and find everything in this town. Even fuel is available about six blocks up Elm street.

The Mississippi, "the largest tributary of the Missouri" enters the river from the left. Directly across the Mississippi at the confluence see the Lewis and Clark monument, a nice quiet place to end your journey just 15 miles above the arch and surrounded by trees and natural river setting. If you want a more public ending point, go on to the arch turn by turning right down the Mississippi passing through the "Chain of rocks" to the arch on your right.